Artisan hands pulling indigo-dyed fabric from the dye bath, revealing deep blue resist patterns

TEXTILE TRADITIONS

Bandhani
A THOUSAND KNOTS

In this ancient tie-resist art, fabric is pinched into tiny peaks and bound with thread ~ thousands of times ~ before being submerged in dye. When the threads are removed, a constellation of dots emerges, forming flowers, waves, and geometries of quiet precision.

The word bandhani comes from the Sanskrit bandhan, meaning "to tie." It is a form of tie-resist dyeing ~ a family of techniques found across the world, from Japanese shibori to West African adire oniko. But Indian bandhani has a character entirely its own.

A Living Tradition

Tied fabric soaking in a dark bucket of indigo dye during the resist-dye process

Each knot is a decision, each dot a mark of patience ~ the language of bandhani is written in thread

THE LANGUAGE OF dots

The basic technique is this: a length of fabric is laid flat, and an artisan ~ usually a woman ~ uses her fingernails to pinch up a tiny point of cloth. She wraps a length of thread tightly around this pinched point, creating a small, resistant knot. Then she moves on to the next point. And the next. And the next. In a fine bandhani piece, this process is repeated thousands of times. The most elaborate ceremonial textiles can contain fifteen thousand ties or more in a single length of cloth.

When the tying is complete, the fabric resembles a strange, textured landscape ~ a surface of tiny peaks and valleys, each one a promise of the pattern to come. The cloth is then immersed in dye. Where the thread is tied, the dye cannot penetrate. When the fabric is removed, dried, and the threads carefully cut away, each tied point is revealed as a small dot of undyed cloth against the coloured ground. These dots, arranged with precision, form patterns of remarkable intricacy ~ flowers, grids, waves, diamonds, and figures that have been refined over centuries.

Artisan pouring dark blue indigo dye into a vat for the tie-dye process
Blue dye paste being poured into a mixing tray for textile dyeing
Women artisans gathered together at the workshop with warm light

From pinch to dye bath ~ the patient steps of bandhani, each guided by generations of knowledge

BANDHANI BY THE numbers

15,000+

Ties in Finest Textiles

The most elaborate ceremonial bandhani textiles can contain fifteen thousand individually tied points in a single length of cloth.

300-400

Knots per Hour

A skilled artisan can tie three to four hundred points per hour, maintaining consistent size and spacing across an entire piece.

5+

Generations of Khatri Families

Many Khatri families in Kutch and Jamnagar can trace their involvement in bandhani back through five or six generations.

Artisans working at long dye tables preparing fabric for the resist-dye process

THE HEARTLANDS ~ Rajasthan

In Rajasthan, bandhani has been an integral part of the textile landscape for centuries. The city of Jodhpur and the towns of Sikar, Bikaner, and Jaipur are all centres of production. Rajasthani bandhani tends toward bold colour combinations ~ deep reds and yellows, bright saffrons and magentas ~ reflecting the vibrant palette that characterises the state's visual culture. Turbans, odhnis (veils), and saris are among the most common forms.

The textile heritage of Rajasthan encompasses not only bandhani but also leheriya, block printing, and numerous other traditions. Bandhani occupies a special place because of its association with celebration, ceremony, and auspiciousness. A Rajasthani wedding without bandhani is almost unthinkable.

Indian artisans at Anushrees Facility process naturally dyed pink cotton fabric in the finishing stage of production for Daughters of India handmade textiles

GUJARAT ~ Kutch AND Jamnagar

Gujarat, and particularly the Kutch region, is widely regarded as the finest centre of bandhani production in India. The town of Jamnagar has been called the "bandhani capital of India," and the artisans of Kutch produce work of breathtaking fineness. Gujarati bandhani tends to feature more intricate patterns and finer dots than its Rajasthani counterpart, with compositions that can include dozens of distinct named pattern elements arranged in elaborate designs.

The quality of Kutchi bandhani lies in the precision and density of the tying. Where a coarser bandhani might have a few hundred ties per metre, the finest Kutchi work can have several thousand. The dots are so small and so closely spaced that from a distance, the fabric appears to shimmer ~ an effect that no printed reproduction can capture.

THE KHATRI community

The bandhani tradition is closely associated with the Khatri community, a group of Muslim artisans who have been the primary practitioners and custodians of the art form for generations. The Khatris of Kutch and Jamnagar are particularly renowned, and many families can trace their involvement in bandhani back through five or six generations.

Within the Khatri community, there is a division of labour that reflects the specialised skills required at each stage. The designing of patterns, the tying, the preparation of dye, and the actual dyeing are often performed by different individuals, each a specialist in their part of the process. The tyers are most commonly women, and their speed and precision are remarkable ~ an experienced tyer can tie several hundred points per hour, maintaining consistent size and spacing across an entire length of cloth.

This community-based mode of production is typical of India's textile traditions, where craft knowledge is held collectively and transmitted through families and communities rather than through formal institutions. It is a model that has sustained these traditions for centuries, but one that also faces challenges in the modern world, as younger generations weigh the demands of traditional craft against other opportunities.

Blue and white tie-dye fabric hanging to dry after the indigo dye bath

“

Each knot is a blessing. Each dot, when revealed, is a small prayer for happiness. To wear bandhani at a wedding is to wear the good wishes of every hand that tied it.

Daughters of India

PATTERNS AND THEIR meanings

01

Ekdali ~ The Single Dot

The most basic unit of bandhani ~ a single tied point creating a single dot. All bandhani patterns are built from this fundamental element. The fineness of the ekdali determines the overall quality of the piece.

02

Boond ~ The Small Dot

A particularly fine, small dot, often used to create dense, detailed patterns. The word means "drop" ~ as in a drop of water ~ reflecting the tiny, rounded shape of each tied point.

03

Kodi ~ Lines of Dots

Dots arranged in straight or gently curving lines. Kodi lines form the structural framework of many bandhani patterns, creating grids, borders, and dividing lines between pattern areas.

04

Dungar, Jaal, Shikari and More

Dungar (mountain pattern): Dots arranged in a zigzag formation, resembling a mountain range, common in Rajasthani bandhani and carrying associations with the Aravalli hills.

Jaal (net or lattice): An all-over pattern of dots creating a net-like effect across the entire surface. Jaal patterns are among the most demanding, requiring thousands of precisely placed ties.

Shikari (hunting scene): A figurative bandhani pattern depicting animals, trees, and human figures ~ a remarkable achievement given that every element is composed entirely of dots. Among the rarest and most prized.

Chandrakala (moon pattern): Circular formations of dots resembling the moon in its various phases. Associated with beauty, femininity, and the rhythms of the natural world. A popular motif in bridal bandhani.

BRIDAL bandhani ~ CLOTH FOR CELEBRATION

Nowhere is the cultural significance of bandhani more apparent than in its role in wedding traditions. Across Rajasthan and Gujarat, bandhani textiles are considered essential for bridal trousseaux, and specific colours and patterns carry auspicious meanings that are deeply embedded in local custom.

The traditional bridal bandhani of Rajasthan is typically worked in red and yellow ~ red for prosperity and fertility, yellow for auspiciousness and new beginnings. The gharchola sari, a bandhani textile from Gujarat, is a centrepiece of wedding ceremonies in many communities. These saris feature elaborate bandhani work combined with gold zari thread, and they are often given by the groom's family to the bride as a sacred gift.

The density and fineness of the bandhani in a wedding garment is itself a statement. A bride wearing a sari with ten thousand or more ties is wearing months of patient labour ~ a gift of time and skill that speaks more eloquently than any other form of adornment. In many families, wedding bandhani textiles are treasured heirlooms, passed from mother to daughter across generations.

Woman artisan block printing on peach-coloured fabric at the workshop table

BANDHANI AND block printing

One of the most fascinating developments in Indian textile craft is the combination of bandhani with block printing. In some contemporary and traditional practices, artisans first tie and dye the fabric to create a bandhani ground, then overprint it with block-printed motifs. The result is a textile of extraordinary depth and complexity, layering two of India's oldest decorative traditions in a single piece of cloth.

This combination works because the two techniques operate on different principles and at different scales. Bandhani creates a fine, dot-based texture across the entire surface, while block printing adds larger, more defined motifs on top. The bandhani ground gives the fabric a richness and vibrancy that a plain-dyed ground cannot match, while the block-printed patterns provide structure and narrative.

At Daughters of India, we work with artisan communities in Rajasthan who maintain expertise in both block printing and bandhani traditions. The interplay between these techniques ~ each handmade, each carrying its own history ~ reflects our belief that the most meaningful textiles are those that honour multiple layers of craft knowledge.

Blue and white tie-dye fabric hanging to dry after the indigo dye bath
Artisan untying tied fabric to reveal resist-dye pattern
Indigo-dyed fabric being handled during the dyeing process
Man holding white fabric before immersion in the indigo dye bath

THE SKILL OF THE tyer

The speed and precision of an experienced bandhani tyer is something that must be seen to be fully appreciated. Using only her fingernails and a length of thread, a skilled artisan can tie three to four hundred points per hour, maintaining consistent size, spacing, and tension across the entire piece. The fingernails of experienced tyers often develop distinctive shapes from years of pinching fabric, and some tyers apply a thin coat of wax to their nails to improve grip.

The tying is typically done by women, often working in groups, seated on the floor with the fabric spread across their laps. The work is meditative in its rhythm ~ pinch, wrap, tie, move on. But it is also physically demanding. A large piece can take weeks of tying, and the repetitive motion places strain on the hands and fingers. Yet the best tyers speak of their work with pride and a quiet joy. There is satisfaction in watching the pattern emerge point by point, in knowing that the design exists first as a tactile landscape of knots before it is ever revealed as a visual pattern.

MODERN bandhani

Like many traditional textile crafts, bandhani faces both challenges and opportunities in the modern world. Machine imitations ~ digitally printed fabrics that mimic the appearance of bandhani dots ~ have flooded the market, often at a fraction of the cost of genuine handwork. These imitations can deceive the casual observer, but they lack the texture, the irregularity, and the dimensionality of true bandhani. A genuine bandhani textile has a puckered surface where the ties were made ~ a tactile quality that no print can reproduce.

At the same time, there is a growing appreciation for authentic handcraft, driven in part by the slow fashion movement and a broader cultural shift toward valuing process and provenance. Designers and brands that work with genuine bandhani artisans are helping to sustain these communities and ensure that the knowledge is passed on to the next generation.

The future of bandhani, like so many Indian textile traditions, depends on there being people who understand and value the difference between the handmade and the machine-made ~ between a pattern that was created dot by dot, by human hands, and one that was printed in seconds by a digital press. That difference is not merely aesthetic. It is ethical, cultural, and profoundly human.

Did you know?

The most elaborate ceremonial bandhani textiles can contain fifteen thousand ties or more in a single length of cloth. An experienced tyer can tie three to four hundred points per hour ~ meaning a single fine textile may represent weeks of patient, focused work by a single artisan.

The Kyra in Deep Sea ~ cloud-like badal tie-dye patterns emerge from the indigo dye bath

Explore Further

THE WORLD OF bandhani

Artisans working on Chaaya Maxi Dress production

Resist Printing

The wider family of hide-to-reveal techniques that includes bandhani.
Dyeing cotton in indigo bath for Daughters of India Deep Sea collection

Leheriya & Badal

Rajasthan's wave and cloud dyeing traditions ~ the companions to bandhani.
Indian textile artisan hand-crafting fabric using traditional techniques at Daughters of India workshop

What is Block Printing?

The companion craft often combined with bandhani for layered textile beauty.
Manufacturing process at the making facility

Women in Textiles

The hands behind the knots ~ women's essential role in Indian textile traditions.
Explore All Craft Pages

TIED BY hand

The ancient art of Bandhani creates patterns through thousands of tiny knots ~ each one tied by hand.

Shipping & Returns

All prices include UK duties and taxes — you won't pay anything extra on delivery. Our slow fashion garments are handcrafted in India and shipped directly to you.

We are a small team however we endeavour to process your order within 1-3 business days. Orders are shipped via DHL Express. You'll receive a tracking number by email once your order ships.

Delivery Cost
Standard · 5–8 business days £15
Express · 3–5 business days £22
Orders over £450 Free


Your order price includes all UK import duties and VAT — we handle customs clearance through DHL so there are no surprise fees at your door. The price you see at checkout is the price you pay.

You can find our full shipping policy here.

We want you to love your Daughters of India piece. If it's not quite right, we're happy to help — simply return within 30 days and we'll issue a Daughters of India Gift Card for the full value. Your credit never expires and can be used on any piece, including new collections.

  • Items must be returned in original condition — unworn, unwashed with tags attached, folded neatly in the Daughters of India tote bag provided.
  • To arrange your return, contact us at hello@daughtersofindia.com. We recommend using a trackable shipping service.
  • Refunds are processed within 5–7 business days of receiving the return.
  • Final sale items are not eligible for returns or store credit.

You can find our full returns policy here.

Shipping & Returns

All prices include UK duties and taxes — you won't pay anything extra on delivery. Our slow fashion garments are handcrafted in India and shipped directly to you.

We are a small team however we endeavour to process your order within 1-3 business days. Orders are shipped via DHL Express. You'll receive a tracking number by email once your order ships.

Delivery Cost
Standard · 5–8 business days £15
Express · 3–5 business days £22
Orders over £450 Free


Your order price includes all UK import duties and VAT — we handle customs clearance through DHL so there are no surprise fees at your door. The price you see at checkout is the price you pay.

You can find our full shipping policy here.

We want you to love your Daughters of India piece. If it's not quite right, we're happy to help — simply return within 30 days and we'll issue a Daughters of India Gift Card for the full value. Your credit never expires and can be used on any piece, including new collections.

  • Items must be returned in original condition — unworn, unwashed with tags attached, folded neatly in the Daughters of India tote bag provided.
  • To arrange your return, contact us at hello@daughtersofindia.com. We recommend using a trackable shipping service.
  • Refunds are processed within 5–7 business days of receiving the return.
  • Final sale items are not eligible for returns or store credit.

You can find our full returns policy here.

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